It’s December—the most wonderful time of the year as they call it; and there’s just something so magical about the way the predawn air feels at this time of the year. On normal days, the window between 3 a.m. and 4 a.m. is usually quiet, streets are empty, and the world is at rest—but not during this season. The predawn hours of December feel more festive, warm, and celebratory and the air just feels extra crisp and cool.
One of the most vibrant expressions of Filipino culture shines through during the Christmas season— it’s a time when faith, community, culture and tradition come together in joyful celebration, truly embodying the spirit of Paskong Pinoy. In fact, we celebrate the longest Christmas season in the world, beginning as early as September. By the time the Ber-months arrive, the festive spirit is in full swing; homes are decorated with Christmas ornaments, malls start to blast holiday music, and stores stock up on Christmas hampers. A daily reminder that the most awaited holiday season is already here.
One of the season’s highlights is Simbang Gabi which marks the countdown to Christmas. People—in their best attires—gather around the church, greeted by a towering Christmas tree twinkling with lights and colorful star-shaped lanterns. They have come to church for a nine-day Catholic tradition of attending mass at predawn which starts on December 16 and culminates in the Christmas Eve midnight mass called Misa de Gallo to welcome Christmas Day.
At the end of each mass during these nine days, people would be greeted by makeshift food stalls and vendors outside the church offering a variety of Christmas goodies. Children would point at toys and balloons, while others eagerly wait for ampao—the traditional red envelope used to hold aguinaldo or Christmas money. But there are two things most exciting in these street stalls, something most of us eagerly anticipate in December: Puto Bumbong and Bibingka—the taste of Christmas.
Nowadays, these two delicacies can be found year-round, but there's something undeniably special about these treats during the Christmas season. When December arrives, they become more than just food—they're a taste of tradition and a bite of nostalgia. Their warm, comforting flavors bring back cherished memories and heighten one’s Christmas spirit.
Puto Bumbong is made with a purple-hued rice cake called puto, often cooked inside bamboo tubes called bumbong—hence, the name puto bumbong. The rice is traditionally sourced from pirurutong, a local dark-purple variety that’s soaked overnight and ground to achieve its distinct purple color.
Making this rice cake is a fascinating process. Vendors fill bamboo tubes with ground pirurutong rice and steam them for about three to five minutes. To check if the rice cake is cooked, they pierce each tube with a stick, and once completely done, vendors will tap one end of the bamboo tube to release the soft, purple rice cake. This rhythmic motion has earned it the nickname Puto Taktak, from the satisfying tapping sound made when the vendor knocks on the bamboo tube.
Vendors will then place the cooked purple rice cake on a fresh banana leaf, brush it with softened butter (or margarine), then top it with grated coconut and dark brown sugar. It gets wrapped in yesterday’s newspaper before being given out to eagerly awaiting customers. This simple yet irresistible treat gives a chewy texture and a perfect balance of sweet, buttery flavors with the rich, fresh taste of coconut.
While puto bumbong is steamed, the fluffy bibingka cake takes a different approach. It is traditionally baked in clay pots lined with banana leaves, with hot charcoal placed both above and below the pots to create an even, smoldering heat.
To make bibingka, vendors mix a batter made from glutinous rice called Galapong, with coconut milk, butter, and sugar. After preparing the batter, they will pour it into the clay pot lined with banana leaves and cook it until the batter is just set. They will then add slices of salted egg and cheese on top before placing it back over the heat for a few more minutes, allowing it to cook fully and emerge as a light and fluffy cake with the perfect balance of savory and sweet flavors. A generous sprinkling of freshly grated coconut is added for extra texture and flavor. The result? A warm, comforting treat with a subtle smokey richness—often enjoyed at home with a cup of coffee, tea, or hot chocolate, perfect for breakfast after Simbang Gabi.
While they are strong symbols of Filipino Christmas now, once upon a time, bibingka and puto bumbong outside of churches during Simbang Gabi weren’t about celebration or festivity—they were born out of practicality and necessity. During the Spanish colonial period, when predawn masses were first introduced to us, churchgoers were largely farmers and fishermen whose workdays began at the crack of dawn. To accommodate their schedules, an agreement was made to hold the mass between 3 a.m. and 4 a.m., allowing them to attend before heading off to tend to the fields or fish the seas.
But this early start came at a cost—nine days of waking up before dawn was exhausting. To fuel their bodies for a long day’s work, they needed something hearty after mass. Enter the kakanin vendors, who saw an opportunity to serve these weary farmers. They began selling breakfast foods like puto bumbong and bibingka outside the church, offering the perfect, energy-boosting meal. Over time, these humble delicacies became intertwined with the spirit of Christmas, transforming into beloved symbols of the holiday season.
There are many things we eagerly anticipate when December comes, among the most cherished things to look forward to are the foods that embody the true spirit of Christmas—like puto bumbong and bibingka. These festive treats are the epitome of Christmas: they go beyond being seasonal indulgences, rather, they are a celebration of tradition, warmth, and the joy that comes with the holiday season.
